Beijing Haunts

We just got back from an 8-day trip to Beijing, or as it played in my mind before we went, The Motherland. Beijing is THE place to start with if you're thinking about discovering China. I am have been far too wired to concentrate on work this week, so I focused on writing this little piece instead.

Of course we visited the requisite Great Wall, Forbidden City, Summer Palace, Temple of Heaven and Tiananmen Square, and they were all great. We also had great fun just walking around these places that should definitely be part of your itinerary should you pay this city a visit:-

Nanluoguoxiang

….i.e. Hutong Central. As per my previous post we roomed at this quaint but elegant little place for 4 days before switching up to the Traders Hotel in the CBD area, and while it had its little faults (no space/hooks for hanging our stuff, no kettle for hot water), its location more than made up for it. It is smack right in the middle of a historical alley (or hutong) converted into totally unique little shops. We tried all kinds of street food - traditional barbecued lamb and chicken skewers, barbecued squid, egg white pancakes, Beijing-style yogurt (so creamy and gooood) and steamed milk, breakfast pancakes made with egg, spring onions, stuffed with a deep fried cruller and three types of sauces (fermented bean, chilli oil and something else – hoisin, maybe?), deep fried tofu in a sweet chilli sauce, Taiwanese deepfried chicken tenders (puts McDonald’s nuggets to shame), drank neat “mojitos” and milk tea, and dropped by the local Starbucks for much-needed, super hard-to-find, expensive coffee.

 



AK and his steamed milk





Yogurt in clay jars

 


Starbucks in the Hutong

We also oohed and aahed at the creative means the Chinese use to decorate their interiors – the use of traditional tea display racks to showcase Brazilian coffee, how they maintain their Chinese identity in design of bot the interiors and facades. And oh, and the stuff they were selling – from household items (French countryside inspired décor, traditional and modern takes on Chinese teas and teasets, Mao prints on everything from enamel mugs to coasters), to clothes and accessories (super-arty origami-inspired local designs, ming pottery made into jewelry, cheap shoes, handmade leather bags) and Chinese-y souvenirs. I bought French-country inspired enamelware (for planting herbs in) and sleek teaspoons at the adorable Kodo.



Nanluoguoxiang shop display - modern take on Ming pottery







The glasswares section of Kodo



 

It was great fun walking here, taking in the cacophony of sights, ducking every now and then into aforementioned shops. I highly recommend spending some lots of time in this area (half a day is ideal) and really loved the fact that the hutongs were literally at our doorstep. Every shop was unique in its own right, and there was some repetition, but overall minimal. I do feel that Malaysian retailers pale in comparison in terms of creativity and uniqueness, and will never be satisfied walking in Malacca’s Jonker Street/Penang’s Batu Feringghi markets again.  

 

Pangjiayuen Antiques Market  

We went faux-antiquing twice at this huge market, once on a weekday and on a Saturday morning. I much prefer going on a weekday. There aren’t that many stalls (but still number at the hundreds), it’s less crowded thus it’s easier to navigate/get shopkeepers’/stall owners’ attention, and most importantly, less foot traffic means more relenting sellers. No doubt, the variety is definitely larger on the weekend, and someone who relishes the challenge of the bargain would prefer to go on a weekend, so do what suits you. AK went a little crazy over these cute wooden stands/bases that are designed for holding teasets and I bought some really pretty celadon bowls. What else were they selling? Chinese locksets, vintage suitcases/ice buckets/gramophones, reproduction furniture, stone sculptures, faux-bronze vessels and figurines, beads of amber/turquoise/tiger’ eye/jade/amethyst and who knows what other stone, pottery (I bought celadon ones), artwork, silverware (from huge cauldrons to traditional headdresses), and who knows what else.

Tribal embroidery



Bargain bargain bargain!

Tribal neck and headpieces - real statement, these things



Antique locks and curtain hooks

Wangfujing


We skipped the Malls at the Orient Plaza, but managed to locate Hai Di Lao in the Intime Lotte mall. All the stories of the courteous staff are true. We ate our way through more than ten plates of mushrooms, two types of beef balls, minced beef with egg (highly recommended), slices of lamb, squid and vegetables cooked in “heaven and hell” broths (bone stock and fiery sezhuan), accompanied by a plethora of dipping sauces (minced beef, mustard, XO, satay, minced garlic, vinegar, you name it). On the way back to the train we stopped by the warren of stalls/shops at the back of street. AK picked out two pairs of shoes that he would normally never consider – but they were fun and so unbelievably priced that he scooped them up. I couldn’t help checking out the three-storey Forever 21 behemoth on Wangfujing. Everything there is Made in China anyway so it makes sense that they’re super cheap. In fact I returned twice to Wangfujing just for the store alone. What I got - comfy shorts for lounging around the house, lots of cute earrings, a funky belt and a striped tee.

Oh, and not China-related but I have to say something anyway. Our house is slowly but surely coming together; the tiles are up in the two upstairs bathrooms and we are going to pick out the flooring for the upstairs rooms as well as decide on kitchen cabinets and built-in wardrobes. We are so close! AK has already picked out the menu for our first home-cooked dinner (lor bak, lotus root soup). 



In the Hutongren Courtyard

Where we roomed for four nights. The place is tucked in a bustling area filled with super-creatively refurbished shops and it's tons of fun exploring.

The hotel itself is an inspiration in Zen design, so I thought I'd share some shots.

Welcome tray filled with loose-leaf tea and sweet bean paste cakes

In the Courtyard, looking up at twilight

The little corner where all the teasets and accessories on display are for sale

Blackie the dog

We loved this setting, and plan to emulate this (on a smaller scale) in our new home

Messin' round Manila, and a lament or two

When we told friends and family that we were planning to spend our long weekend in Manila, most people assumed it was a transit point to more, er, touristically appealing places, like Boracay or Cebu. Our colleagues who had been there regaled us with tales of being scalped by everyone from cab drivers to makeshift tour guides to random people on the street, of gunfights and general lawlessness.

Well, it did happen as soon as we arrived, we paid 3 times more the going rate for our cab ride from the rather shabby airport to our hotel.

Just a few highlights of our trip:




Fried and grilled seafood at the Landmark Mall food court

1) Food here is waaaaay cheaper than in KL. A nice big grilled sotong (squid - super fresh, and charcoal grilled to perfection) in a nice clean mall food court in the heart of Manila (Landmark mall, next to Glorietta and Greenbelt) costs about 700 PHP or about RM4. We feasted on mostly pork (they do very nice lechon or grilled pork), stuffed crabs, and fish. I have to say though, unlike in Malaysia where the flavours are a riot in your mouth and the use of spices and seasonings (lemongrass, tumeric, cloves, chillies, etc.) is more of a commonality than a rarity, Pinoy seasoning seems to be limited to sugar and fish sauce. We also tried pasig (sizzling pork innards - not my favourite), as well as a myriad of desserts - caramel tarts from Goldilocks and suman (glutinous rice with assorted fillings). I could not really eat much though - too rich and almost one-dimensional tastes meant that I gradually ate less and less the more days I spent there.



Above the gate into Fort Santiago is St James, patron saint of Intramuros, defeating his Muslim enemies. Ironic because before the Spanish came, the Philippines was a Muslim state

Entering Fort Santiago

2) Intramuros is the historical former Spanish quarter part of town. Tell the cabbie to bring you to the Manila Cathedral, the tallest monument in Intramuros. It is worth signing up for the Walk This Way (If These Walls Could Talk) walking tour, hosted by the irreverent Carlos Celdran, whose passion for his city is downright infectious. He takes you into Fort Santiago, seats you down on the grass and regales you with tales of Jose Rizal, the Filipino nationalist whose critique of the Spanish friars' abuses in the Philippines during colonial rule earned him the execution squad, and subsequently an overthrow of Spanish rule. He then goes on to American colonism (did you know that the Philippines was once in the running to be the 53rd state?), how American town planning know-how, capitalist philosophies and excellent work ethics helped develop Manila into the most beautiful and advanced city in SE Asia, a true gateway between East and West. Asia's first airline was Air Philippines. Manila housed the first Asian cinema. I didn't know that. Then came World War II and a certain General McArthur, and Manila became the epicenter of the war between the Imperial Army and Navy of Japan and their American counterparts, and her people suffered dearly for it. The second most devastated city after Warsaw, Manila never really recovered after that.

I am so thankful we (I mean I - AK usually leaves the itineraries to me) chose to splurge on the tour (which, at 1100 PHP was expensive by Manila standards - government tours were going for half the price), I never ever knew or even realised how much the Filipino people suffered in a war that they were never a real part of. I don't understand why the Battle of Manila, and the Manila Massacres do not make a much larger part of our local South-East Asian history. Ironic that I know so much more about the Rape of Nanking, of the bombing of Dresden, of the Blitz in London, than I know about the utter devastation of my neighbour. A real shame indeed.

I will also add that at the current moment of writing, Carlos Celdran, the dreamer and leader of this tour, has just been sentened to jail for "offending religious feelings". He mentioned his opposition to theocracy in his tour briefing, and quite openly criticized the dominance and influence of the Catholic Church in the Philippines. I pray that the charges will be dropped, all he did was try and demonstrate against the influence of the Church in local politics. Manila and the Philippines will lose a man who has done more for city and its tourism industry than any of those self-righteous prosecutors ever will.

Chursh of St Augustine, Red Cross headquarters during the war and one of Intramuros's
 few survivors during the Battle of Manila

City on the sea

I like Venezia better at night.

When the endless, sometimes maddening crowd somewhat dies down.

When she puts on her mask, and starts to show a bit more of herself.

Still, there is something to be said about all the shimmering water all around you, reflecting the sunlight.

My biggest gripe about Venezia is the sheer number of people like me. People who flock to her, jostling for her attention.

People who wanna sit at the pier and gaze at the cliche that is those annoyingly loving couples (or nowadays, noisy but well-moneyed Chinese tourists) being serenaded to in gondolas (80 Euros per ride, the last we asked).

I realize now, I could never compete amongst Venezia's many admirers. I just don't have the moolah (or the willingness to spend so much) to eat at Harry's Bar, or buy a few Gucci bags, or sit on at St. Mark's Square at Cafe Florian with a cappucinno. Venezia really made me feel rather poor and unworthy. Well, on the bright side (I guess), I am not the only one.

We did try a gorgeous fritto misto at a little touristy osteria which for the life of me I now cannot remember the name of.

Truth be told, we ate mostly at this little place, mostly Mozzarella in Carrozza. With ham, and plain.

I also knew I had to take home one of these. A lovingly Made in Venice paper mache mask.

Ahh Venezia, we had our little moments. I pray that you'll forever be awash in all that glitz and glamour.

I hope you'll always stay aloof and unattainable, and keep to that little habit of always holding a little something back. I'm pretty sure you will.

 

More BKK Shots



Love the mango lady's hat, just outside Chatuchak Market





Backpacker spotted at Chatuchak



Bar in a minivan @ Sukhumvit 11





At a noodles stall near the Patpong area





Coffee to go

If you're in Chatuchak and find yourself craving caffeine, may I recommend this stall opposite the KK Bank outlet. Best damn iced cappucinno I had in a long time (topped with steamed milk, mind you - not cream). I tried numerous other iced coffees all round BKK (in the most upscale malls, on the streets, you name it) - in vain. I still dream of a cup of her brew in the afternoons.



Art fixture in Section 7 of Chatuchak

Aloft in the City of Angels, and eats in BKK

Bangkok is my favourite city in the whole wide world. The dust, the humidity, the horrendous traffic, they're all nondeterrents for me. I love the food, the shopping, the all-round friendliness of the people.

We roomed at the Aloft Bangkok, a pretty cool place that's part of the Starwood chain. What we liked: the 42-inch LED televisions, the ports to plugin your hard disk or portable dvd player, the iPod docking station, the Nespresso machines and complimentary coffee pods in each room. Oh, and the super comfy bed that is the Starwood chain signature. The lounging area was also pretty nice, with its stock of snacks (yogurt, cereal, instant noodles) and coffee at very affordable prices. The lounge was also equipped with foosball and pool tables, comfy bean bags and a Sony PS3 console. AK and I spent a good amount of time trying to beat each other in beach volleyball, medieval swordplay and archery.

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If you're ever feeling peckish at the Aloft, then we do recommend the steak sandwich. Thick, juicy, totally tasty and worth the splurge. This was so good that we ordered it again  the night before we departed Bangkok.

 

 

 

 

 

Erawan Tea Room was a place I read about here and also in the Bangkok City Guide provided by the hotel. We tried the seafood "stir fried with rhizome" and red duck curry, plus pork noodles to share. Everything was superbly done, and I left with a tin of silver-tipped white tea leaves and a jar of prettily packaged guava jam. I vowed to return to try their exquisite looking afternoon tea.  

 

Seafood stir fry at Erawan Tea Room

 

Another place we really loved was Laem Chaer Roen Seafood. They apparently have non-distinctive outlets at both Central World (tucked in a little corner) and Siam Paragon (Level 5), but remain a local rather than tourist favourite. A friend generously bought us dinner at the Central World outlet, where we had the signature Deepfried Snapper in a sweet Thai fish sauce, Tom Yum Goong (with lots of super fresh prawns), an ikan bilis salad and stir fried morning glory. The snapper was addictive, the Tom Yum was perfect. Defnitely a must-return.

 



Deepfried snapper in a sweet fish sauce, ikan bilis salad and fried morning glory at Laem Cha Reon Seafood Restaurant



 

 

I love Siam Paragon's abundant, slightly chaotic basement food court, with its combination of street food (barbecued pork skewers for 15 bath, grilled squid, rice paper rolls) and relatively upscale cafes and bakeries all under a single roof.  

 

 

Chocolate inspirations (love the brownie cake idea) at Siam Paragon's basement Gourmet Market

 

 

 

Gandhi's words

The first place our irreverent Mumbai guide, Felix, insisted we visit was the Gandhi museum. And I could see why any Indian would be proud of such a figure.

 

My own words here fail me, here in the presence of the Mahatma's.

 

And thus I leave you with such.

 

Gandhi on virtues:

 

On following what you know is right.

On women and equality:

A rendering of how his pacifist protests brought warring factions together:

His vision for his country. I think India today would depress him. Malaysia too.

"A leader of his people, unsupported by any outward authority, a politician whose success rests not upon craft nor mastery of technical devices, but simply on the convincing power of his personality; a victorious fighter who has always scorned the use of force; a man of wisdom and humility, armed with resolve and inflexible consistency, who has devoted all his strength to the uplifting of his people and the betterment of their lot; a man who has confronted the brutality of Europe with the dignity of the simple human being, and thus at all times risen superior.

Generations to come, it may be, will scarce believe that one such as this will ever in flesh and blood walked this earth."

- Princeton writeup